On our last day in Rome we finally visited its most famous attraction. The Colosseum!!!
We declined a tour this time preferring to look around at our own pace. It is massive and in really good condition considering how old it it. You can really get a good feel for how it would have been in classical times and how it would have al worked. Obviously all of the seats and staircases and the floor have gone but you can see where they would have been and se where all of the animal cages under the stage would have been. It actually looks just like it does in the pictures which was really cool!!!
After getting our fill of that we looked at the Arch of Constantine which I studied at high school. It was (like everything) amazing to see it in person so to speak. Again it is amazingly intact and the carvings are so detailed.
We then headed into the ruins of Palatine hill which mythology has it, is the hill upon which Rome was founded, Romulus and Remus and the wolf and all that. There are the ruins of impressive imperial palaces there as well as a Stone Age village. We had our lunch amongst the bits of ancient marble which is littered around everywhere. Its crazy that you are just allowed to sit on bits of old columns and they are piled up in corners.
It was the same litter of columns and brick in the Roman Forum. This was the heart of the Roman Empire but not much remains. There are a few columns standing and some ground level ruins of the temples, buildings and courtyards. We had out guide book which was really useful to figure out the importance of what we were looking at.
We walked up from the Roman Forum and found more ruined forum areas. I was particularly excited to see Trajan’s Column which is a huge column with elaborate carving depicting the victories in the battles spiralling all the way around it as it was another thing we studied at school. It was spectacular even surrounded by a building site.
By this time having looked at a lot of roman ruins in one day we were a bit over it so briefly visited the Victor Emanuall Monument which is a huge white marble building that we didn’t really appreciate the significance of, and then got some gelati to refresh ourselves. Even, raining and cold it’s still yummy, we sat on the steps by the Trevi fountain again to eat it. They have so many yummy flavours and the texture is soo good. I think ( unsurprisingly) that one of my highlights of the trip was the food and especially the gelati!!! Even cheap train station pizza was yummy and restaurant food was amazing. The best pizza I had was the anchovy one, the pizzas are so simple compared to the ones we make at home, one or two toppings where we would put as much as we could fit and with really thin crispy bases, mmmm I’m getting hungry just thinking about it!!!
In the morning we said good bye to Rome and caught the train north pack to Pisa. Despite pouring rain we decided that we couldn’t miss the leaning tower so we battled the weather down to the Piazza dei Miracoli, the Field of Miracles, so called apparently as it contains not just the Famous Leaning Tower but an amazing Basilica and Baptistery, as well as souvenir shops of course!!!
We were completely amazed by how much of a lean the tower is, you can really see it. Climbing up it was quite an experience, the stair case winds around the inside of the wall so sometimes you were leaning to one side, sometimes to the other and sometimes walking more or less steeply up. A very strange sensation. When we got to the top it was a bit scary as the marble was slippery from the rain and its quite a lot slanted!!!!! The whole experience made Jeremy a bit seasick feeling. This was another highlight for me as I wasn’t expecting it to be on such a lean and to see something so famous that actually exceeds expectation was (shall I say it again) amazing!!!!
And that ended out wonderful Italian Holiday. We really enjoyed it. For me the highlights were the Sistine Chapel, the Leaning Tower and the food. And really just the chance to actually see things that for so long we’ve been looking at pictures of and hearing about.
Now, after such a great trip, we’ve been bitten hard by the travel bug so have gone out and bought a giant map of Europe and are thinking about where to go next. And beginning to plan our big adventure for the summer!!!
Tuesday, 27 January 2009
Monday, 19 January 2009
Tivoli and Villa Adrianna
Yesterday we headed out of the city to Tivoli.
Its where popes and other important people such as the Emporer Hadrian had country villas. The town its self is situated on top of a hill with nice views out over the countryside.
We first visited Villa de'Este, were Cardinal de'Este lived. The house was lovely with painted walls in every room and very elaborate ceilings. Its the gardens which the villa is really famous for. They are more a series of fountains connected with paths and plants than gardens, every corner you urn is another fountain!!! They were really impressive and there was even a musical fountain that has a waterpowered organ inside. Most of the fountains have beautiful statues of Roman god and godesses in them which was a bit confusing as the garden was built in the 15 somethings!!!! it was quite intereesting ctuallyhow they keept copying the roman statues and paiteings, inside the house there were two rooms depecting Heracles (whom the Este family claim to descend from) and other roman gods, then right next door was rooms depecting Noah and Moses, and this is the house of a Cardinal who still has roman gods everywhere!!!!
The town of Tivoli was cute with a nice piazza in the center where we had lunch, yummy pizza from a shop that had about 20 different flavours!!!
After lunch we headed down the hill to Villa Adrianna, (Hadrians Villa). Hadrian was emporor in about the 200s AD so all the ruins there were really old but actually quite well preserved. The place was massive. we got a bit lost at first in the olive groves adn couldnet see any ruins then we found them and were amazed! there were really well perserved mosaic floos and loads of bits of columns lying all around the place, it was quite funny reading the information boards, each of the areas is called by a name but it seems that later archiologiest disagree with that naming so at each board it seemed to say 'the so called Latin library' or something like that.
We caught the bus back into Rome and made ourselves pasta again!!! mmm they have some quite random food here in the supermarket, we brought chocolate filled croussants for lunch and bread and salami.
Its where popes and other important people such as the Emporer Hadrian had country villas. The town its self is situated on top of a hill with nice views out over the countryside.
We first visited Villa de'Este, were Cardinal de'Este lived. The house was lovely with painted walls in every room and very elaborate ceilings. Its the gardens which the villa is really famous for. They are more a series of fountains connected with paths and plants than gardens, every corner you urn is another fountain!!! They were really impressive and there was even a musical fountain that has a waterpowered organ inside. Most of the fountains have beautiful statues of Roman god and godesses in them which was a bit confusing as the garden was built in the 15 somethings!!!! it was quite intereesting ctuallyhow they keept copying the roman statues and paiteings, inside the house there were two rooms depecting Heracles (whom the Este family claim to descend from) and other roman gods, then right next door was rooms depecting Noah and Moses, and this is the house of a Cardinal who still has roman gods everywhere!!!!
The town of Tivoli was cute with a nice piazza in the center where we had lunch, yummy pizza from a shop that had about 20 different flavours!!!
After lunch we headed down the hill to Villa Adrianna, (Hadrians Villa). Hadrian was emporor in about the 200s AD so all the ruins there were really old but actually quite well preserved. The place was massive. we got a bit lost at first in the olive groves adn couldnet see any ruins then we found them and were amazed! there were really well perserved mosaic floos and loads of bits of columns lying all around the place, it was quite funny reading the information boards, each of the areas is called by a name but it seems that later archiologiest disagree with that naming so at each board it seemed to say 'the so called Latin library' or something like that.
We caught the bus back into Rome and made ourselves pasta again!!! mmm they have some quite random food here in the supermarket, we brought chocolate filled croussants for lunch and bread and salami.
Saturday, 17 January 2009
Obelisks, oblelisks, everywhere
We spend all of today just walking around the streets of Rome looking at various Piazzas and fountains and streets. And yes, it seemed that everytime we turned a corner there was an Egyptian obelisk. Even in the park there were at least two.
We started off the day by heading to the Campo dè Fiori which is a market in a little piazza. There wasn't too much there and I guess that must be because it is still winter. But we got there by walking along the Via Giulia which is a 500 year old street lined with lots of old shops. We then passed through the Piazza Navona before heading to see the Pantheon. I wasn't that impressed when we were walking up to it (from behind) because all you could see was the bricks on the outside but I was amazed once we saw the front and got inside. The inside was so pretty and the huge dome is just breathtaking. Although we did ponder what they did when it rains as the centre is open to the sky. Gem thinks the floor must be slightly sloped to the centre where there are what looks like drain holes.
Next up we visited the Fontana di Trevi where we tossed in some coins to guarantee our return to Rome. We then watched all the other tourists doing it too and we reckon they must make a tidy sum from all the coins we saw tossed in! We then wandered up to the Spanish steps where we hunted around for some Gelati to have while sitting on the steps. (by the way, is it Gelati or Gelato?) Anyway, we found some place and they gave us some very very elabourate ice creams with bits and things stuck all over it (including a sparkly streamer) and proceeded to charge us our entire week's Gelati budget for it. I think we were had. They were pretty amazing though.
We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering through the Villa Borghese (a big park) before looking at the Piazza del Popolo and wandering down the Via Condotti. Thats the street where there are heaps of the really expensive fashion shops are like Prada and Gucci and Jimmy Choo are. We also headed along Via del Corso and saw more shops and some guys doing spray paint art (on canvas, not walls). The spray paint art had really vibrant colours but usually had some futuristic stlye colloseum with several moons and pyschadelic sky. We thought it was really cool and unique but then 20 metres down the road was another guy doing the same thing with the same colloseum stencil.
Anyway, thats pretty much it. We got back to the hostel and had fresh pasta for dinner again. We are planning to head out to Tivoli tomorrow to look at Hadrian's Villa. Well hopefully, provided we can find out how to get there.
Bye!!
We started off the day by heading to the Campo dè Fiori which is a market in a little piazza. There wasn't too much there and I guess that must be because it is still winter. But we got there by walking along the Via Giulia which is a 500 year old street lined with lots of old shops. We then passed through the Piazza Navona before heading to see the Pantheon. I wasn't that impressed when we were walking up to it (from behind) because all you could see was the bricks on the outside but I was amazed once we saw the front and got inside. The inside was so pretty and the huge dome is just breathtaking. Although we did ponder what they did when it rains as the centre is open to the sky. Gem thinks the floor must be slightly sloped to the centre where there are what looks like drain holes.
Next up we visited the Fontana di Trevi where we tossed in some coins to guarantee our return to Rome. We then watched all the other tourists doing it too and we reckon they must make a tidy sum from all the coins we saw tossed in! We then wandered up to the Spanish steps where we hunted around for some Gelati to have while sitting on the steps. (by the way, is it Gelati or Gelato?) Anyway, we found some place and they gave us some very very elabourate ice creams with bits and things stuck all over it (including a sparkly streamer) and proceeded to charge us our entire week's Gelati budget for it. I think we were had. They were pretty amazing though.
We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering through the Villa Borghese (a big park) before looking at the Piazza del Popolo and wandering down the Via Condotti. Thats the street where there are heaps of the really expensive fashion shops are like Prada and Gucci and Jimmy Choo are. We also headed along Via del Corso and saw more shops and some guys doing spray paint art (on canvas, not walls). The spray paint art had really vibrant colours but usually had some futuristic stlye colloseum with several moons and pyschadelic sky. We thought it was really cool and unique but then 20 metres down the road was another guy doing the same thing with the same colloseum stencil.
Anyway, thats pretty much it. We got back to the hostel and had fresh pasta for dinner again. We are planning to head out to Tivoli tomorrow to look at Hadrian's Villa. Well hopefully, provided we can find out how to get there.
Bye!!
Friday, 16 January 2009
Vatican City
Today we left Italy and visited the smallest country in the world!!! And posted postcards there!!!
We got up reasonably early and had breakfast at the hostel. Again we had real coffee, sugary cereal and croussants out of a packet, tho chocolate filling this time. I think I could get used to Italian breakfasts!!!
We made our way to St Peters Square which is huge adn apparently ussually filled with tourists and chairs for the paupal audience. We were lucky enought to see it almost desserted so we could get a real feel for the scale of it and the amazing architecture.
As we walked up to the entrance we were offered a free tour in english so of course we jumped at the chance to get shown what we are looking at. The guide was wonderful and she told us about all of the paintings )although actually all of the pictures in St Peters that look like paintings are actually mosaics!!) and told us about how huge it is and a bit abou the history. We were also very lucky that as they were doing some restoration on the usual entrance we got to enter throught the main front doors where the pope usually holds his mass on wednesdays!!
St Peters it totally GIANT!!! The inside is longer than one and a half football fields and the letters around the top of the dome are 12 feet tall!!! In all a very awe inspiring place.
After leaving there the tour continued into the Vatican Museums (tho we did have to pay this time, but worth it) I'm so glad we stayed with the tour as she told us that there are 14 km of corridoors in the museum and if you looked at each item for one minute it would take 12 years to see everything!!!! so good thing we didnt give ourselves the oppurtunity to get lost!!! we looked at some of the most important sculptures by famous artists and of course the Rapheal rooms that were painted By rapheal ( obviously) which were beautiful, paintings all over the entire walls and ceilings!!!
...and the on to the Sistine Chapel. I dont know what to say about that really, its not possible to describe in words. It was simply beautiful, an amazing piece of art that really took my breath away and nothing like what I expected it to be. If you've seen it you will know what i mean and if you havent, go see it!!! And especially wonderful to have had it all explained to us before we went in so we knew what to look for and where to stand to see it at it's best. Unfortunatly no photos allowed tho.
After lunch at a local pizzeria reccomended by our guide (very yummy, tho the danger of not being able to understand the menu meant I had an Anchovie pizza, tasty but not my first choice!!) we braved some more stairs and climbed to the top of the cupola, the little round bit at the top of the dome of St Peters. the views down into the nave from the dome really put the whole basicilica into perspective and it was possible to get an idea of how massive it really is. The people looked tiny down there!!! And then some beautiful views of Rome, we have been really lucky with the weather so far and it was a clear blue day!!! phew are we over staris by now tho and its only the thrid day, dont worry tho we will still not be able to resist climbing up anything else that presents its self tomorrow.
o and we had our first roman Gelati this afternoon as we walked home. i have blueberry and pistacio and jeremy had chocolate (of course) which was soo yummy!!! Bring on more tomorrow
Love us.
We got up reasonably early and had breakfast at the hostel. Again we had real coffee, sugary cereal and croussants out of a packet, tho chocolate filling this time. I think I could get used to Italian breakfasts!!!
We made our way to St Peters Square which is huge adn apparently ussually filled with tourists and chairs for the paupal audience. We were lucky enought to see it almost desserted so we could get a real feel for the scale of it and the amazing architecture.
As we walked up to the entrance we were offered a free tour in english so of course we jumped at the chance to get shown what we are looking at. The guide was wonderful and she told us about all of the paintings )although actually all of the pictures in St Peters that look like paintings are actually mosaics!!) and told us about how huge it is and a bit abou the history. We were also very lucky that as they were doing some restoration on the usual entrance we got to enter throught the main front doors where the pope usually holds his mass on wednesdays!!
St Peters it totally GIANT!!! The inside is longer than one and a half football fields and the letters around the top of the dome are 12 feet tall!!! In all a very awe inspiring place.
After leaving there the tour continued into the Vatican Museums (tho we did have to pay this time, but worth it) I'm so glad we stayed with the tour as she told us that there are 14 km of corridoors in the museum and if you looked at each item for one minute it would take 12 years to see everything!!!! so good thing we didnt give ourselves the oppurtunity to get lost!!! we looked at some of the most important sculptures by famous artists and of course the Rapheal rooms that were painted By rapheal ( obviously) which were beautiful, paintings all over the entire walls and ceilings!!!
...and the on to the Sistine Chapel. I dont know what to say about that really, its not possible to describe in words. It was simply beautiful, an amazing piece of art that really took my breath away and nothing like what I expected it to be. If you've seen it you will know what i mean and if you havent, go see it!!! And especially wonderful to have had it all explained to us before we went in so we knew what to look for and where to stand to see it at it's best. Unfortunatly no photos allowed tho.
After lunch at a local pizzeria reccomended by our guide (very yummy, tho the danger of not being able to understand the menu meant I had an Anchovie pizza, tasty but not my first choice!!) we braved some more stairs and climbed to the top of the cupola, the little round bit at the top of the dome of St Peters. the views down into the nave from the dome really put the whole basicilica into perspective and it was possible to get an idea of how massive it really is. The people looked tiny down there!!! And then some beautiful views of Rome, we have been really lucky with the weather so far and it was a clear blue day!!! phew are we over staris by now tho and its only the thrid day, dont worry tho we will still not be able to resist climbing up anything else that presents its self tomorrow.
o and we had our first roman Gelati this afternoon as we walked home. i have blueberry and pistacio and jeremy had chocolate (of course) which was soo yummy!!! Bring on more tomorrow
Love us.
Thursday, 15 January 2009
Cinque Terre!
Hi folks, So right now we have just arrived in Roma after spending an absolutely lovely time in the Cinque Terre. The Cinque Terre is a collection of five (cinque) villages along the northwestern coast of Italy. It is so beautiful there and absolutely picturesque. The land is really rocky and there are heaps of little terrance bits of land that is farmed for olives and grapes. It is really steep there and the villages are just clinging on the edges.
We landed in Pisa after a very very early flight from Birmingham and immediately hopped on a train up to La Spezia. Luckily it was the right train as we couldn't really tell because the electric signs weren't working at the airport station. We had a really yummy lunch at a bakery in La Spezia (we had Focaccia and pizza bread and some elcairs and chocolate filled canelone pastry). Then we caught the regional train to Riomaggiore. The village was all tall terrace apartments painted in pastel pink, cream, and orange. All with regulation green shutters too!
After finding our hotel up the steps (lots of steps on this holiday!) we had a nap (which was very needed) and then walked along the coastal path (via dell'Amore) to the next village called Manarola. After looking briefly around there we headed back and watch the sun set over the Ligurian sea. How lovely.
We had dinner that night at the only open restaurant we could find. It is the middle of winter after all! We both had mussels in our dinners which were quite small, we're so spoilt in NZ.
This morning we got up early for breakfast which was in a building across from the hotel and we had mini toast out of a plastic packet and cakey croissant with apricot filling (also out of a plastic packet) and the same chocolate cereal we had in Paris. oh and real italian coffee for breakfast! Then we took the train to the furtherest village called Monterosso which was a fantastic beach town and was soo cute. All the villages how tiny little narrow steep streets with buildings on either side going straight up! We could see that Monterosso would be packed with tourists in the height of summer so it was really nice to have it all to ourselves with just a few locals haggling over stuff in the market.
We bought focaccia again and then walked along the coastal path to Vernazza which was way more of a hike than the via dell'Amore. It was really steep going up, and the track was really narrow in some places. Everytime we turned around we were amazed by the views. We took heaps of pictures which we'll put up when we get back. We didn't feel up to walking any more steps after we got to Vernazza so we took the train to Corniglia. Unfortunately the station is way below the village and we had to walk up 382 steps to get there! After looking around the final village we hopped on the train again and had a 5 hour trip to Rome! Which is where we are now.
Our hostel has free internet so hopefully we'll be able to blog about what we've been up to each night that we're here. We have 4 full days in Rome so we've got plenty to do and see.
Ciao!!
We landed in Pisa after a very very early flight from Birmingham and immediately hopped on a train up to La Spezia. Luckily it was the right train as we couldn't really tell because the electric signs weren't working at the airport station. We had a really yummy lunch at a bakery in La Spezia (we had Focaccia and pizza bread and some elcairs and chocolate filled canelone pastry). Then we caught the regional train to Riomaggiore. The village was all tall terrace apartments painted in pastel pink, cream, and orange. All with regulation green shutters too!
After finding our hotel up the steps (lots of steps on this holiday!) we had a nap (which was very needed) and then walked along the coastal path (via dell'Amore) to the next village called Manarola. After looking briefly around there we headed back and watch the sun set over the Ligurian sea. How lovely.
We had dinner that night at the only open restaurant we could find. It is the middle of winter after all! We both had mussels in our dinners which were quite small, we're so spoilt in NZ.
This morning we got up early for breakfast which was in a building across from the hotel and we had mini toast out of a plastic packet and cakey croissant with apricot filling (also out of a plastic packet) and the same chocolate cereal we had in Paris. oh and real italian coffee for breakfast! Then we took the train to the furtherest village called Monterosso which was a fantastic beach town and was soo cute. All the villages how tiny little narrow steep streets with buildings on either side going straight up! We could see that Monterosso would be packed with tourists in the height of summer so it was really nice to have it all to ourselves with just a few locals haggling over stuff in the market.
We bought focaccia again and then walked along the coastal path to Vernazza which was way more of a hike than the via dell'Amore. It was really steep going up, and the track was really narrow in some places. Everytime we turned around we were amazed by the views. We took heaps of pictures which we'll put up when we get back. We didn't feel up to walking any more steps after we got to Vernazza so we took the train to Corniglia. Unfortunately the station is way below the village and we had to walk up 382 steps to get there! After looking around the final village we hopped on the train again and had a 5 hour trip to Rome! Which is where we are now.
Our hostel has free internet so hopefully we'll be able to blog about what we've been up to each night that we're here. We have 4 full days in Rome so we've got plenty to do and see.
Ciao!!
Tuesday, 13 January 2009
Early Morning
So its night time now and in a few hours we are going to have to get up and head to the airport to catch an early flight over to Pisa! In case you haven't heard we managed to get sale tickets from Ryanair and so are having a cheap trip to Italy. Also we've crammed our backpacks full of stuff since that is the only baggage we are taking with us. Ryanair charges you extra for each checked in item, and being cheap as we are we are not checking in any! So just cabin baggage for us which we'll have to live out of for a week. Shouldn't be too bad.
We'll post what we get up to in Italy once we get back as I'm not sure how succesful we'll be at using computers in Italy, but you never know, you might get a mid-trip post if you're lucky.
Til then, Ciao!
We'll post what we get up to in Italy once we get back as I'm not sure how succesful we'll be at using computers in Italy, but you never know, you might get a mid-trip post if you're lucky.
Til then, Ciao!
Saturday, 10 January 2009
Merry 2009!!!
Happy New Year to Everyone!!!
Christmas and New Years have gone off well for us and we have had a nice time over the festive period.
Unfortunately no snow on Christmas, it was actually a lovely day. We got up fairly early on Christmas morning and opened all our pressies which have been arriving from the postman over the last few weeks!! Both of my parents sent us warm clothes which are coming in very handy!!! Becky managed to get mum onto skype and the webcam so we talked to them and to Meredith as well. The webcam is great to actually see people especially at Christmas!!! We then worked Christmas lunch which was actually quite fun and then took loads of leftovers home for a big dinner at the house.
Work has been pretty quiet and the hotel was mostly closed between Christmas and new years but we had a massive function on New Years Eve. There were 97 people and it was pretty mad. J and I were lucky enough to get to go home just after midnight night after a quick glass of pink bubbly with our workmates and then we watched the fireworks at the castle from the end of our drive.
My Cousin Pam and Andrew came to visit us on new years eve, which was fantastic to see them and we showed them around the hotel and Warwick town.
Work had its Christmas party on th esunday after Christmas. yes a sunday we always go out on sundays cos thats when the hotel is quietest. We had it at a bar in Stratford with santa hats, a christmas meal and lots of drinks and dancing. As with any work the secret santa was excellent, J got computer games and i got a pink scarf which is great!!! not so secret but still fun!!!
Jeremy has been a bit sick the last week or so, poorly as they say here so we haven’t been up to much and J has been tucked up in bed avoiding the very cold weather we’ve been having. The pond in the park is frozen over very thickly which is quite exciting. I was going to say cool but …
We are heading off to Italy on Wednesday which is very exciting and we are looking forward to it a lot. Hopefully if will be a tad warmer than here and can’t wait to see everything and get back into travelling again!!!
So until we return with loads of Italian stories
Love gem
Christmas and New Years have gone off well for us and we have had a nice time over the festive period.
Unfortunately no snow on Christmas, it was actually a lovely day. We got up fairly early on Christmas morning and opened all our pressies which have been arriving from the postman over the last few weeks!! Both of my parents sent us warm clothes which are coming in very handy!!! Becky managed to get mum onto skype and the webcam so we talked to them and to Meredith as well. The webcam is great to actually see people especially at Christmas!!! We then worked Christmas lunch which was actually quite fun and then took loads of leftovers home for a big dinner at the house.
Work has been pretty quiet and the hotel was mostly closed between Christmas and new years but we had a massive function on New Years Eve. There were 97 people and it was pretty mad. J and I were lucky enough to get to go home just after midnight night after a quick glass of pink bubbly with our workmates and then we watched the fireworks at the castle from the end of our drive.
My Cousin Pam and Andrew came to visit us on new years eve, which was fantastic to see them and we showed them around the hotel and Warwick town.
Work had its Christmas party on th esunday after Christmas. yes a sunday we always go out on sundays cos thats when the hotel is quietest. We had it at a bar in Stratford with santa hats, a christmas meal and lots of drinks and dancing. As with any work the secret santa was excellent, J got computer games and i got a pink scarf which is great!!! not so secret but still fun!!!
Jeremy has been a bit sick the last week or so, poorly as they say here so we haven’t been up to much and J has been tucked up in bed avoiding the very cold weather we’ve been having. The pond in the park is frozen over very thickly which is quite exciting. I was going to say cool but …
We are heading off to Italy on Wednesday which is very exciting and we are looking forward to it a lot. Hopefully if will be a tad warmer than here and can’t wait to see everything and get back into travelling again!!!
So until we return with loads of Italian stories
Love gem
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
